Author: Falldog
Revisiting Gundam SEED – Part 2
Welcome to part two of my four part series on Gundam SEED! My goal with this series has been to rewatch Gundam SEED for the first time since it originally aired back in 2002. It’s a rewatch with open arms and an open mind after almost a decade of seemingly universal SEED hatred within the North American Gundam community.
So far my experience has been mostly positive. There are some rough parts, not really with the characters, but the weak plot and setting. Certainly nothing to justify the vehement hate.
Valvrave the Liberator – Episode 01 Quick Review
The 2013 spring anime season is here and it’s a great one for mecha fans. Majestic Prince started things off followed by the promising Gargantia on the Verdurous Planet. Now it’s time for Sunrise’s entry, Valrave the Liberator, and things are looking good.
Synopsis
"Shinreki 71, 70% of all human beings have finally migrated to space due to the development of space cities. Between two organizations called the Dorushia Military Pact Federation and the Atlantic Ring United States (ARUS), there is a small neutral nation called Jiōru that has prospered economically. In the same year, Haruto Tokishima, a high school student living in Jiōru discovered a mysterious mecha called Valvrave during the Dorushia’s attack in the nation." via Wikipedia
Revisiting Gundam SEED – Part 1
If you asked me my thoughts on Gundam SEED I would quickly tell you I don’t like it. If you asked why I would respond with, "the characters were awful," then proceed to give some vague remembrances from years past before mumbling off. Chances are I’d also mention how much I loath Hisashi Hirai’s character art while I was at it. The short of it is, I don’t quite remember much about Gundam SEED.
I can tell you that I watched it when it first aired almost a decade ago. I watched it for a long time, just how far into the series I don’t remember. My memory tells me that the characters were pretty unlikable even as the story pretty much took its plot points straight from Mobile Suit Gundam. The suits I remember a bit more, especially the Strike Gundam, which I consider to be one of the best all time Gundam designs (I have two PG Strike kits). There was also the four legged suit which I liked the design of until I saw how poorly it was used in the series. The enemy grunt units though, man how I hated them (and still do). Where the Strike was a classy remake the want-to-be Zaku’s and like looked as though they were styled by a child. "Eh, here ya go. We just messed with the shapes and added some spikes here and there. Oh, you want more? Well here it is with a horrible mohawk contraption." With such fragmented memories I thought it appropriate to reintroduce myself to the series and rewatch Gundam SEED. Is it as bad as I recall? Was I looking at it too much through rosy UC glasses? Will I discover anyone in Northern America who actually likes the program?
Nu Gundam Ver. Ka
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Yay, another project complete! As usual, a bunch of text on the build here, all the fun photos after. Jump down if you’re wise enough to skip my yammering.
So, aside from some issues here and there, the Nu ver. Ka is an amazing kit. Fantastic design, strong engineering, and a transformation gimmick that doesn’t impact the kit’s general functionality. One of the things that bugs me the most is the new hands. Woe is me that Bandai is going to be rolling them out full force. They’re too fragile and I’ve lost a few finger tips. I miss the hands that came with the Sinanju ver. Ka.
Layman’s Gunpla Guide – Priming Tutorial
I wanted to take a minute to write about priming as it’s something a lot of modelers do before painting a kit. Though generally a good idea, it’s not always needed.
You should use primer when……
- You have a rough or uneven surface – Primer does a good job of evening out surfaces. If you have a kit that has heavy sanding marks, paint may not do a good enough job leveling them out. Typically, you should work the pieces with a lighter grain of sandpaper before priming. If the surface has pot marks or other defects, priming can help identify them prior to paint and provide a good working surface for sanding and filling. If this is your main concern, consider using something from Mr. Surfacer.
. - You’re going to a lighter colour than the surface plastic – This is the most common reason for priming. Any time you want to go to a lighter colour, the plastic should prime before hand to provide a lighter andThis is especially important for vibrant and bright colours. The look of many paints will be dependent on the tone below and bright colours will pop considerably more if the underlying colour is also bright. Darker colours won’t be impacted nearly as much and subsequent coats will help close the gap.Here are some examples of how basic colours look depending on the base coat below them. If I’m painting a like colour to the plastic underneath, I generally don’t prime as the effect is generally negligible.
- You’re going to paint on a multi-toned/coloured surface – As paints will often appear differently depending the surface colour they’re applied on top of, having a base surface with different colours can result in tone differences amongst pieces. Sometimes this is results in a desired effect (i.e. pre-shading) but when unintended it can make a kit look awkward.
- Your paint has difficulty adhering to the plastic – Paints will sometimes have difficulty adhering to plastic. A good coat of primer creates a nice consistent coat for paint to stick to. Most modern kits don’t have this issue and many older ones just need a wash before painting. Resin, on the other hand, needs both a wash and prime for best results.
Note that covering with white primer is going to be time consuming and require a lot of a lot of coats. Whether it’s the lightness of the white, or a thinner mix that’s used, you’re going to spend more time applying coats than simply going with a darker colour. Because of this, it’s important to make sure all your pieces are coated to the same extent. If not, you may assemble and find that two concurrent pieces, having not received the same coats, feature different tones. It’s also worth noting that in my experience, shades of red are generally the hardest colour to completely white out.
2013 Washington Auto Show – Lower Concourse Photo Gallery – Part 2
Today I took my annual trip to the Washington Auto Show in, you guessed it, Washington DC. This year it runs from February 1st through the 10th at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center. I took a ton of photos this year so I decided to share them here on OR. While I normally hate sites that break up articles across many pages I figured it would be for the best here due to the number of pictures.
Upper Concourse
Featuring Buick, Chevy, Chrysler, Dodge, Fiat, Ford, GMC, Jeep, Scion, and Toyota
2013 Washington Auto Show – Lower Concourse Photo Gallery – Part 1
Today I took my annual trip to the Washington Auto Show in, you guessed it, Washington DC. This year it runs from February 1st through the 10th at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center. I took a ton of photos this year so I decided to share them here on OR. While I normally hate sites that break up articles across many pages I figured it would be for the best here due to the number of pictures.
Upper Concourse
Featuring Buick, Chevy, Chrysler, Dodge, Fiat, Ford, GMC, Jeep, Scion, and Toyota
2013 Washington Auto Show – Upper Concourse Photo Gallery
Today I took my annual trip to the Washington Auto Show in, you guessed it, Washington DC. This year it runs from February 1st through the 10th at the Walter E. Washington Convention Center. I took a ton of photos this year so I decided to share them here on OR. While I normally hate sites that break up articles across many pages I figured it would be for the best here due to the number of pictures.
Upper Concourse (This Page)
Featuring Buick, Chevy, Chrysler, Dodge, Fiat, Ford, GMC, Jeep, Scion, and Toyota
